Francesca Galloway: Textile Splendours of the East

Francesca Galloway presents 'Textile Splendours of the East'

24th June – 26th July, 2019, 9.30 to 5.30 Monday to Friday

Mayfair, 31 Dover Street, London W1S 4ND

‘Textile Splendours from the East’ – An exhibition to celebrate Hali’s anniversary.

Francesca Galloway is a leading specialist dealer in Indian painting and courtly objects, and Islamic and European textiles.

Francesca is well known internationally for her expertise, taste and integrity. Her career began in the early 1970s when she

worked for Christie's in Rome before joining Spink & Son at the height of the Persian art boom in 1976. She became a

director and co-authored a number of seminal exhibitions on Islamic art, Indian painting and textiles, before setting up

her own business 1992.

Please enjoy some images from this fabulous exhibition of textiles and if you are in London be sure not to miss it!

Sogdian silk textile, Francesca Galloway

Sogdian Bulls

Central Asia, following Sasanian prototypes, 

probably 7th-8th century AD

Silk samite

Sogdian textile, Francesca Galloway 

 silver-gilt repousse plaque depicting a mandarin duck in flight, Central Asia, 7th-9th cen. Francesca Galloway

Silver-gilt repoussé plaque depicting a mandarin duck in flight

Central Asia, 7th-9th century

Repousse silver-gilt

 rare needleloop embroidery with tree peonies, Chinese, Yuan dynasty (1279-1368) Francesca Galloway

Rare needleloop embroidery with tree peonies

Chinese, Yuan dynasty (1279-1368)

Needleloop embroidery over pieces of gilded paper (now in worn condition) on yellow satin damask


 Sogdian textile fragments consisting of three different polychrome silks sewn together, 7th century, Francesca Galloway

Fragment consisting of pieces of three different polychrome silks sewn together, the largest with a design of paired deer within

pearled roundels

Probably first half of the 7th century

 Sogdian textiles, a pair of embroidered boar's heads within pearled roundels, possibly embellishment to be tied to a garment or textile, Francesca Galloway

A pair of embroidered boar's heads with pearled roundels, possibly embelishment to be tied to a garment or textile

Central Asia, probably mid 7th century (C14 results 635-723 AD); silk of Chinese origin

Silk chain stitch on a dark brown self-patterned silk in tabby- 1/3 twill weave

Francesca Galloway

 Francesca Galloway

Part of a short coat in polychrome silk with a repeating design of rosettes and crosses, the design derived from late Sasanian silk costume

Central Asia, early 8th century (c. 700 AD); Chinese silk lining

Silk samite weave


 Francesca Galloway

Polychrome silk border fragment depicting the legs and feet of a pheasant within a roundel, flanked either by a 'rainbow'

arrangements of appliqué folded strips of plain silk

Central Asia, late 8th or early 9th century,

Samite weave, plain silk of Chinese origin

 Francesca Galloway

Chinese winged dragons and Hellenistic vine stems

Central Asia (Xinjiang), 2nd-4th century AD

Silk embroidery, chain stitch on a red silk tabby ground


 Francesca Galloway

Woman opening the doors of a building

North China, Northern Wei dynasty, late 5th century

Silk chain stitch embroidery on damask

 Francesca Galloway

Square panel, perhaps a cover, with original lining and two ties

Western Central Asia, 14th century (C14 results: 1278-1412 AD)

Floss silk embroidery in long and short stain stitch on a warp-faced silk tabby weave ground, couched gilded animal membrane


 Francesca Galloway

Short jacket or shirt probably intended to be worn under an outer garment

Lightweight monochrome silk with applied panels of a thicker polychrome silk with a repeating design derived from contemporary

Sasanian samites (such as those found in Antinoe in Egypt) 

Western China or the Eastern Silk Road, second half of the 6th century AD

 Francesca Galloway

 Francesca Galloway

Patchwork silk panel with interlocking ingot design

Chinese, Ming dynasty, 14th century

Silk, silk damask, flat gold on paper, and silk embroidery

 Francesca Galloway

Small panel of embroidery with the eight Buddhist auspicious symbols of Good Fortune

Chinese, early Ming dynasty, 1368-1424

Polychrome silk floss in long and short stain stitch embroidered on a deep blue warp faced 3/1 twill weave, the warp yarn of animal hair and the weft of 

silk yarn. The gilded paper Z-wound around a colourless silk core is couched

 Francesca Galloway Francesca Galloway

 Francesca Galloway

Hanging or curtain

Morocco, Fez or Tetouan, early to mid-19th century

Two loom widths woven in silk lampas, some bands woven with metal thread (silver lamela wrapped around a silk core)

 Francesca Galloway

 Francesca Galloway

Long length of uncut cloth, possibly for temple or palace furnishings

South-east India, Coromandel Coast or Deccan, c. 1800

Cotton; block printed and mordant dyed

 Francesca Galloway

 Francesca Galloway

Large panel from a bedcover or hanging (palampore)

Coromandel Coast for the European (possibly Dutch) market

first half of the eighteenth century

Cotton, mordant-dyed and resist-dyed

 Francesca Galloway

 Francesca Galloway

Fragment of a canopy for a Hindu shrine

South east India

 Francesca Galloway


 Francesca Galloway

Choga (man's ceremonial coat)

Kashmir, c. 1855-75

Kashmir woven wool embroidered with silver-gilt wrapped thread; chain-stitch, couching

 Francesca Galloway
 Francesca Galloway Francesca Galloway

 Francesca Galloway, Assam Indian textile

Vaishnavite silk from Assam (East India)

Scenes from the Bhagavata Purana and the Ramayana

Assam, 17th century

Silk lampas

 Francesca Galloway, south Indian textile
 Francesca Galloway

 Francesca Galloway


Deccan, 1800-1850

Cotton, painted with gold and pigments, including copper acetate arsenate

 Francesca Galloway, Indian textiles

A) Pidan fragment with Buddhist imagery and inscription

Cambodia, late 19th or early 20th century

Silk; twill-woven weft faced ikat (hol)



B) Pidan depicting water festival motifs

Cambodia, late 19th or early 20th century

Silk; twill-woven weft faced ikat (hol)



 Mongol era velvet, Francesca Galloway

Velvet with gold discs in offset rows

Mongol Persia, (Il-Khanid dynasty), possibly Tabriz, c. 1300 (C14 1299-1431 AD)

Brocaded velvet, silk and gold thread

 Francesca Galloway

A meeting of lovers in the dark

Folio from a Rasikapriya series

Mewar, c. 1660

Opaque pigments and gold on paper

 Francesca Galloway

Two pilgrims or guardian figures standing by a cyprus tree

South-east India, possibly Masulipatnam in coastal Deccan, mid 18th century

Cotton, drawn, mordant-dyed and resist-dyed, profusely highlighted in gold. Blue pigment added later


 Francesca Galloway

Moroccan yellow silk double-sided embroidery

Probably Sale or Meknes, first half of 20th century

Silk embroidery on satin, edge with silk passementerie; line stitch, drawn thread and long and short stitch

 Francesca Galloway

3 Tiga-ringgit songkok

Indonesia, Sulawesi, Buginese, c. 1900

Raffia palm leaf fibre, stained brown or left white, fine gold wire and flat gold lamella, basketry weave


 Francesca Galloway

Cover (bohcha)

Ottoman Turkey, with European influence, early 19th

Wool, silk chain stitch, silver and silver-gilt lamella couched over cotton

 Francesca Galloway

A boy's circumcision costume consisting of a jacket, short pantaloons, and a vest

Tunisia, Tunis, first half of 20th century

Silver lamella, silver sequins, silver thread, cotton, paper and synthetic satin


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